Third Sewing Class

Last night was sewing class number 3, and I made some great progress! I had finalized my muslin in the previous class, so this session was time to start cutting the real fabric. I was super nervous about cutting my precious fabric but took a deep breath and went for it.

After I cut the wool, I cut out the underlining. We're using organza for the underlining, which the teacher provided. I had a choice between black and charcoal, I went with the charcoal because it was already out. No one is going to see this when the dress is finished so I wasn't worried about the color.

For the underlining, we used our already cut out wool pieces as the template, and cut at least 1/4 inch extra around each edge. The reason for that is so when we sew the two pieces together the organza will stay bigger than the wool. If the wool is bigger than the organza, when sewn together it will pucker. So I left a generous sidewalk around each piece. After they are sewn together to my liking I will trim the excess.

I'm excited to keep working on this through the next two weeks, as we don't have class next week. Michelle asked that everyone be done underlining their pieces by our next class. I am super excited for this dress to take shape!

Below: The pile of all my wool and organza pieces!

Sewing Class #2

Last night was our second sewing class, and we continued fitting work on our muslin. I had spent a little time over the past week tweaking the muslin myself, so I had time to draft and add a sleeve to my muslin. In the picture it is full length but on the final dress it will be 3/4 length. 

In addition to adding a little room around the waist, we pinched out some fabric along the neckline to get it to lay flat. I have always had a gapping problem in that area but was never sure what to do about it outside of making some darts. But now I have learned a way to fix it! 

I'm not sure why the back looks so wrinkly, but perhaps its because I'm fitting over my pants. 

Also, a fabric update, I did go ahead and buy the raspberry wool. And I think it is going to be awesome!

I think its a great color for my complexion and also a color that will never go out of style. I can't wait to start cutting the dress and underlining it! We'll start that next Thursday. I'll have more pictures then.

First Sewing Class and Fabric

Well, I had my first sewing class last night. What a great time!
We talked a little about the techniques we're going to use-- hand picked zippers, hand stitching, fancy couture darts, hand stitching...apparently we're going to do a lot of hand stitching.

We took our measurements and then started on making a muslin. Once the muslin was put together we made some adjustments, and by that time it was time for class to end! I am still working on my muslin adjustments, but I will post some pictures later this weekend or early next week.

Now on to the fabric- the fabric that I have purchased is this:

An apple green wool with some texture. I got it at Haberman's for about $24 a yard. There's a couple problems though, so I may end up going with something else. This wool is a little thicker than the instructor would like us to use, and the texture will hide any of the decorative hand stitching we do. So I will probably end up back at Habermans, and if I do, I know just what I will buy...

This raspberry wool crepe.

It's also $24/yard, which is about normal for Haberman's wool. This wool is lighter than the green wool, and it also lacks the texture of the green wool so those details will show. I can then save the green wool for a coat or maybe a skirt.

Also, I picked a pattern. I am going to use Vogue 8667, view F, possibly with 3/4 length sleeves. I am going to eliminate the darts on the front skirt, I think. This is because the skirt falls better on my body without them, as I discovered last night. This really is one of the biggest benefits of taking a class with a professional-- professional fitting advice.

I'm kind of undecided on the sleeves. On one hand, this is going to be a cold weather dress so the sleeves might be nice, but on the other hand, I like wearing cardigans/sweaters/blazers over dresses and if its long sleeved that wouldn't work as well. I think I may need to take a trip to the mall this weekend to do some sleeve research. Maybe I can try on some similar wool dresses with long sleeves to see how I like them? Anyone have input about the sleeves?

Couture Dressmaking Class!!

There is a sewing studio in Ann Arbor called Nonpareil that I've been to on occasion.  The lady that runs it, Michelle, used to host "Crafts and Cocktails" once a month- a chance to see her studio, work on your project on her machines and of course get her expert advice on your project. Some of the projects shes helped me finish are the best projects I've completed! 

I was very excited to see that she was offering a Couture Dressmaking Techniques class this fall, but then saw that it was to be Monday nights, and I have other commitments on Mondays. I tried to forget about it, until YESTERDAY, I got an email from her studio saying among other things, that the class had been changed to Thursday nights! I registered immediately and now have started daydreaming about how awesome this is going to be.

Here's the description of the class from her website:

Know the basics of sewing, and have made yourself a few (or many) garments? Ready to take your skills to the next level? Learn couture techniques like underlining, stabilizing edges, easing fullness and hand finishing a zipper to make your garments fit well, and look beautiful. 8 sessions. Must purchase Vogue 8828, 8648, 8280, or 8667 (only one), lightweight wool and lining  of the appropriate yardage, and matching thread. I will give suggestions, and help locate fabric, if needed.

So I have to pick a pattern and fabric! I'm hoping to get some insight from my readers about which pattern to chose. Here are the options and my thoughts.

First, Vogue 8828: 

The description says " Lined dress has princess seams, fitted bodice, raised waist, semi- or loose-fitting skirt, back zipper and top stitching  Narrow hem. A,B: flaps. F: button trim and sleeve bands. C,F: collar. D,E,F: back slit. E,F: welts. A,B,C,D cup sizes." I think I would probably make view D, as that would be the most versatile for me and my wardrobe. However, I like the buttons shown on view F. I could easily add that detailing to my version of view D. 

The second option is Vogue 8280:

The description says " Fitted dress, lined bodice, back zipper closing with front flange. A, B, E, F: back slit opening. C, D: pleated lower section. Armhole and sleeve variations. A: sash with hook and eye closing." While I don't really love the sleeve options for this dress, I do like that it has a v-neck and I think that it might be most flattering for me.

Vogue 8648 confuses me the most. The line drawings make the dress look a little wacky in my opinion, especially the versions with a fuller skirt. I think I would go for view A for this pattern. Despite my being unsure about this pattern, Sarah at Goodbye Valentino made a gorgeous version of view A using a bright pattern. 

Finally, Vogue 8667:

From the Vogue Website: "Lined, mid-knee length dresses A, B, C, D, E, F have fitted bodice, princess seams, A-line or straight skirt and back zipper. A, B, C: front pleated skirt. E: contrast skirt. B, C, E: cap sleeves. D, E, F: back hemline slit. A, B, D, E: collar."

I already own this pattern, but I haven't made it yet. I like all the views with the straight skirt, but probably like view D best.

So those are my options. Opinions? Anyone made one of these patterns and have pictures of their finished project?